Concept to reality build week 1


Welcome to the first insert of a two week challenge. Concept to reality started as a crazy idea between myself and Luis Aguilar. With the both of us being quite busy with daily things like life and builds that are a bit complex it leaves a bit of a problem. yes the both of us do have quite a few builds happening at the moment but the problem is there is no closure as such as we haven’t completed anything in some time due to the complexities of the builds. So this idea is to make sure we actually get something done in a short period of time, hence the two weeks.

With this two week challenge there some rules that are put into place. 1: Modifications are kept to a minimum. 2. Either the kit or style is kept the same. 3. Posting daily progress. 4. Having fun.

So what are we building? Well to kick this off we decided to do something we both enjoy and that’s Nissan’s. We love Jap cars and Nissan’s in particular. We found the Tamiya skyline 2000 turbo Gtes (r30) for a steal on Ebay. The kit it self is quite simple as it’s the older Tamiya kits but still a great model.

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As you can see one of the issues is that most of the details is molded to the chassis and suspension detail is minimal. One of the first mods will be to remove the exhaust.

Some tips about building.

1. When receiving your kit always check the parts to make sure they all there and undamaged.

2. Give the parts a wash before doing anything to them as there might be some residue from the injection molding process.

3. Read through instructions before cutting any parts to make sure you have a good idea of the build process.

4. Never twist parts off the sprue. Use a cutter to remove it and sand smooth.

* There has been a delay since day one with my internet so please do excuse the late updates.

Before we get into the posts I thought it would be appropriate to have a small section on Luis..

I’m Luis and I’m a plastiholic. Here’s my half of this dual build that my buddy Raees asked me to join in with him. 2 weeks to build a model, pfft haven’t done that in over a decade. What use to take me 2 weeks, can now take months, if not years to build. It’s mainly due to the one simple thing, being anal! Haha, I’m a bit picky when it comes to details. Sometimes corners need to be cut to achieve a look or style down in scale. I try not to, so that’s what causes me to take longer on some builds. So when Raees asked me if I wanted to take this K.I.S.S. 2 week project, I said
“sure, I’ll give it a stab” were gonna try and Keep It Simple Stupid method. Hope we can pull it off… Enjoy the show.

I love j-tin and the automotive culture behind it. Styles like shakotan, Kyusha, bosozoku, drift, VIP, rusty motorfix are just a few that inspire my builds.

Here’s the idea.
My plans are to paint it a pearl white with orange wheel centers. Interior will be kept clean and simple. Lowered(a must) and some ONI-Kyan for that ass.

Tamiya kit and aoshima wheels. I went with the SSR MKIII. Super sexy I photo(1)

Day 1.

To get the build going I decided to tackle the first mod which was to remove the exhaust. However I opted to remove only half as removing the rest would result in too much time being wasted on that one task. I used a Dremel with a high speed cutter to remove it ( my Dremel is like my other hands. Must have tool).


Once that was done I tackled the wheels. I went with the Aoshima metal Watanabe wheels with hippari tyres( stretch). I did some research into the car before hand to get some ideas and this wheel fits the era and style of the car. Then again Watanabe’s make almost any Jap car look sexy. I made the centers cream to keep it with the retro theme I have in mind and to be a bit different. IMG_1666IMG_1672

Once I had the wheels painted I did a mock up and felt that the body was lacking some ‘body’. The side was too flat for my liking and I went and flared the rear arches a bit just so that the wheels could tuck in nicely and add something extra to the car. Another concern was the front. Once dropped the front bumper was sitting too high compared to the side of the car and it just looked off. I added a small lip made from styrene to make the car look more in proportion to the stance.

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Luis progress.

Here is the beginning of me modding the chassis. I was gonna let it slide at first, but I couldn’t.
Since the chassis is a motorized style, one wheel well is narrow and the other is wide. Why? Don’t know, I don’t see why they could keep them the same and still fit the electric motor. So I just added a strip of styrene to fill in a bit.

I also don’t like the molded in exhaust pipe. That’s one detail that could’ve been made separate. Since it doesn’t require to be filled, I hacked it off up to the catalytic. I’ll make my own exhaust 4
Now here the rear modes for lowering.
It uses a metal rod to hold the wheels, but since I’m needing some camber, it can’t be used.
There’s many ways to get passed this, bending the rod, cutting the rod in half and using rubber tube to hold together, tooth picks, or the laziest of them all, crazy gluing them into place.
I went with some solid styrene rod and a bit of tubbing slid into a brake/hub assembly. Looks better I think.


I usually have to chop and or make a new shock and hub to mount the wheels and get that lowered and camber affect.

I want it to steer proper with no binding, in order to get that, the kits set up has to stay “normal” no cutting or hacking of its stock configuration.

So on this set up, I went the old school route and got creative. I cut a part of the original hub to lower and with a file I trimmed back a bit at an angle to get some camber.

photo 1

Now, some advice. Double check everything! I had one side done, or so I thought. Turns out my chassis would go passed its mounting points up front. So my height looked spot on. Well it wasn’t. It was no where near where I wanted it. So I made the top holes bigger to where the coil sits in it and made these new mounting points for the top. Now it sits where I want it to.

photo 2

Here’s how it looks done. Simple way to lower it and still be able to steer.
You can see I had to make a spacer to fill in the new gap I accidentally made.
The brake assembly will mount to the silver part.

photo 3

Day 2

Day two started off quite promising as progress on day one was in the right direction for both of us. Luis decided to finish off the stance of the car and final tweak on day two. Here’s what he had to say.

I love pushing the limits of stock tins. I simply thin down the fenders from the back side. Just like fender rolling on real cars. This gives me clearance for lowering and steering.

In this pic you can see that the front wheels are a bit shallow offset. I liked it and all, but I said f@$k it and slapped…

photo 1 copy photo 2 copy photo 3 copy

I went in a different direction and tackled the interior. i first gave all the parts a prime and a coat of matt black. Since I wanted to keep the car to the old skool theme i went with a very retro style interior. I went with a two tone theme on interior. I added some tan flocking to the floor to add the contrast to the dash. The seats were sprayed tan and the inserts hull red. The dash was also painted hull red and a few hand painted details were added. The VIP tray table came from an Aoshima wheel set and I felt it added a nice touch. Now there was a slight problem in the details department of the rear seats. They were just too plain for me and something needed to be done. I had a spare BBS rs wheel laying around that I painted some time ago and i thought it would be nice to have a strapped in wheel in the back to add some character to the build. The seat belts were made of p.e buckles, some ribbon from a craft shop and the clips were scratch built.

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Day 3

I finished off the interior by adding the other buckles as that was all the time I had for that day. IMG_1688 IMG_1689

Luis on the other hand got a head start and got the body under colour. I must say it looks good in white. The centers of the wheels also got a paint in Tamiya brilliant orange. The wheels are a nice contrast to the body.


Day 4

To get a move on I started to detail the chassis so that I could get the suspension going. first thing I did was paint the motor and diff. The prop shaft will be detailed later. I use Citadel paints for detailing as it is the best. They are easy to work with and are great to blend. Once the silver was dried I gave the chassis a wash with a mud brown followed by a black wash. These are also Citadel paints and are prethinned.

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Luis made some progress on the exhaust and started prepping the body for final clear.

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Day 5

Day was the beginning of the suspension for me. I started with the front as it has proper suspension compared to the rear which is just a metal bar. Since this was the first day of the suspension I had to do a test run to see what worked for me so that I could get the results I wanted in terms of stance but also try to keep the steering.


The brake disk was added from some parts I had laying around. Beneath is a comparison between the stock and the mod.


Luis got most of his parts painted and they are looking good.


Day 6

While busy finishing a painting the chassis I re-looked at my flared arches situation. They weren’t working for me so I scavenged for some parts and came across some fujimi mk1 Golf racing arches. They seemed to fit quite well so I went with that. They will be reshaped and will save some time.


Luis finished off the parts and gave the glass a cut. He mentioned he was going for an open window build which is an interesting addition.


Day 7

The first week has reached its end, time has really flown. Funny enough both of us finished the suspensions of the car on the same day. This is a mock up with a different wheel that I am busy preparing for production. The new arches were also shaped and finalized for paint.IMG_1726

Luis got his done as well and got the body ready for final paint.


3 thoughts on “Concept to reality build week 1

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